AboutThis is an unfocused catch-all personal blog written by a South African environmental journalist living in Cape Town. My professional blog is Leaves of language.
Random and best posts
- Covid-19 graphs
- MacOS 10.14.6 supplementary update killed my MacBook Air battery
- How to remove pentalobe screws from a Macbook
- How to use as little cellular data as possible when tethering to your cellphone
- Misleading claims from 1 Life
- Being cheated by Afrihost ISP
- Resolving problems with Airport Express (first generation)
- WD passport drive not visible or mounting
- Airport Express not connecting to wifi network
- Buddhism and economics
- How to fight South African spam (uninvited bulk email)
- @GeorgeMonbiot All true, and yet the real issue here is that Cummings is the key adviser to a PM that has 'led' one… twitter.com/i/web/status/1… 3 days ago
- No fan of either @BorisJohnson or Dominic Cummings, but I note none of the media pack are wearing masks or observin… twitter.com/i/web/status/1… 4 days ago
- @MRCza Seriously? There's a f**king pandemic, and you guys have nothing better to do but toss ubuntu on a bonfire?… twitter.com/i/web/status/1… 4 days ago
Everything that’s here
After installing the MacOS 10.14.6 supplementary update upgrade earlier this week, my MacBook Air6,2 (2014) started dying whenever I unplugged the power. It would still work with power supply attached.
I do have a non-Apple battery installed which has been working perfectly for the past four months.
After 10.14.6, the system information (About this Mac > System Report > Power) was showing there was no battery installed.
I did an SMC reset with the power supply attached, and this seems to have resolved the problem. (Holding thumbs.)
How to reset the SMC for MacBooks with non-removable batteries (from AppleToolBox):
- Shut Down your MacBook
- Once your MacBook shuts down, press Shift+Control+Option on the left side of the built-in keyboard and then press the power button at the same time.
- Hold these keys and the power button for 10 seconds (for applicable models, the Touch ID button is your power button)
- Release all keys.
- Press the power button again to turn on your MacBook.
Summary: run a sharp blade or pin around the edge of each pentalobe screw a few times before trying to remove them, using a Pentalobe screwdriver.
So you’re battling with pentalobe screws that won’t come out? I recently wanted to do a battery upgrade on my much-loved 2014 Macbook Air. However, though Apple seems to understand that averting climate change demands switching from fossil fuel energy sources to renewable energy, they appear to be lagging in their understanding of “repairability” as a vital component of our urgently-needed circular economy. I could be rude about this, but they’ll never notice.
So, to frustrate would-be repairers, they use non-standard pentalobe screws on many of their devices. Pentalobe screws can be an absolute f*&%ing b—— to remove, particularly if they have become stuck several years after manufacture.
Anyway, encouraged by an inflated quote from a repair shop for doing the battery swap, I battled to find useful suggestions for removing them on the Internet, and eventually came up with my own: run a sharp blade or pin around the edge of each pentalobe screw a few times before trying to remove them. This serves, I conjecture, to break the ‘weld’ of gunk that insinuates itself into a screw thread after a few years of normal device use.
I hope this will help a few of you avoid some of the pain I went through before figuring this out!
Note: this is about how to remove screws that frustrate even when you have the proper tools… if you don’t have a Pentalobe screwdriver, you’ll have to look elsewhere for ideas, but I strongly suggest first locating the proper tools.
Quick summary: Install the Opera browser and the TripMode applet. In Opera, enable ad-blocking and data compression, and disable images.
Note: I am a Mac user, but both Opera and TripMode are also available for Windows.
As someone who spends a lot of time working in coffee shops (mostly writing and editing), I prefer to spend as little time as I can worrying about my data connection. Occasionally, one happens on a decent open wifi connection, but all too often, coffee shop wifi is insecure (never do your banking over public wifi), slow, and unreliable, and demands signing up for services that spam you in exchange for just a few minutes or megabytes of access.
But the alternative — using cellular data — often seems too expensive. Or is it? I’ve recently found a combination of software and configuration options that allows me to radically reduce my cellular data usage, which means I can tether more often without anxiety. Hopefully, this configuration will work for you too.
Dangers of tethering
The problem with tethering is that unless you’re very careful and well-versed in the ways of your operating system, all kinds of things can happen in the background to trash your data balance without you even realising it’s happening. Your Mac, if it’s like mine, will try to download App Store and Google software updates, synchronise Contacts (small problem) and Photos (big problem): all without ever asking you. Some apps download huge updates the moment you launch them. Skype lurks in the background helping along other people’s calls without you knowing (that’s just how Skype does its thing).
Then there are the hazards of using a so-called modern web browser when it’s on default settings: web pages are now festooned with flash ads, embedded videos that infuriatingly auto-start, huge images… A single web page can now blow a substantial portion of your data cap. And as data speeds get faster, you can also blow your bundle or cap ever faster.
Configuring your Mac for the lowest possible cellular data use
So here are the steps I took to get my tethering data usage under control. I hope they work for you too.
- Install the Opera browser, and configure it as follows:
- Opera comes with built-in ad-blocking and data compression options, so open your preferences and enable them(read about Opera Turbo). It’s also extremely light on energy consumption, with Battery Saver enabled, so will help you get the most out of your notebook’s battery. Opera is now based on the same software core as Google’s Chrome browser, but it’s lighter on energy use.
- Within Opera, also disable auto-image downloading: “Preferences”: “Websites”: Select “Do not show any images”. From here onwards, you’ll only see the text of the web pages you visit, but mostly, if you’re actually working and not mucking around, this is all you need (so the bonus here is this configuration helps avoid distractions).
- Install the ‘Images ON/OFF’ Opera add-on, so you can opt in to downloading images on a particular page if you really need them.
- Install TripMode. It’s an elegant little menu bar app built by some Swiss guys that activates automatically when you tether, alerts you whenever one of your apps or system services tries to phone home, and tells you how much data it’s using. You can either then let that app do its thing, or ban it permanently from connecting when you’re tethering. TripMode is well worth the $8 it will cost you. It’s not quite perfect – the developers need to do a little fine-tuning, but it’s already well the investment.
Now, by way of example, when I’m tethering, I allow only Opera, Telegram, Messages, Contacts and Calendar to connect. And Opera is set up to run very lean indeed.
I suspect this may be the leanest possible configuration that will still allow you to get stuff done, on the absolute minimum of data. My experience is that I can now spend several hours emailing, messaging, and referring to the occasional web page – and still use no more than 20 or 30 MB of data.
I recently received an SMS ad from the South African life insurance company 1 Life, offering, “Get R10m of life cover from as little as R120 a month WITHOUT medical exam.” But after applying for this cover, I was offered just R2m of cover at a cost of over R1000/month. Needless to say, I consider that the original ad was extremely misleading. I laid a complaint with the Advertising Standards Authority, and I am happy to say that the complaint has been upheld – 1 Life has been found to be in contravention of the ASA code of conduct. See the full ruling here (pdf).
For me, it’s pretty clear that a company that cannot be trusted to advertise with honesty and accuracy probably also cannot be trusted to pay out when a claim is made. Kudos to the ASA for their quick and efficient ruling.
My partner is a customer of the South African internet service provider Afrihost. When she signed up with them several months back, she opted for a 4 mbps line. Recently, she expressed frustration that their line speeds are so slow. I checked the line speed through the ADSL speed test – it was just 1 mbps. We queried this with Afrihost – and they confirmed that the line is indeed running slow, blaming it on the line provider Telkom. This means that for several months, we have been paying for a service we have not been receiving. We requested a refund for the balance between what we’ve received and what we’ve paid for. They (“NicholasT”) refused point blank.
I strongly suggest that if you’re using an Internet Service Provider in South Africa that you check that you’re getting what you’re paying for, and that you avoid Afrihost.
I have a first generation Airport Express which has been unreliable for years, frequently dropping connections or failing to play despite being connected (green light on) to the network. I recently purchased a new ADSL-wifi router (D-Link 2740U) in the hope that it would resolve various other network reliability problems that have arisen with my 10-year-old Netgear DG340 ADSL router. It was extremely frustrating then, to discover that although the new router had indeed made for a more stable network connection, my Airport Express continued to drop out.
I have, however, found a fix – limiting the wifi netork to 802.11B+G bands only, and excluding 802.11N, a setting which is found on the router.
(Perhaps if my ADSL connection were faster and my home bigger, this would limit my download speeds and network range, but since my broadband connection is only 1.72 mbit/s, and the 802.11G standard allows speeds up to 54 mbit/s, that is not a problem for me.)